I have had good fortune and many blessings that have made it possible to travel to Tanzania. I am sharing my account of this trip in three sections: 1) Kilimanjaro; 2) Arusha and UAACC; and 3) Zanzibar. This entry is specifically about my Kilimanjaro adventure with tips and tales about this exciting experience.

The only climber wearing earrings (Mount Meru in the background)

How it All Began

In 2016 I had just gone through a difficult time as my dad passed away in April that year. My father, Lamar McClure, was a proud man and old-school in many ways. When I would head out into Pacific Northwest wilderness for a few days he would say, “Don’t tell me when you’re goin, just tell me when you’re back!” He didn’t want to worry about me being eaten by a bear or falling into a canyon, even though I assured him I was safe. So, keeping with his wishes and knowing “He doesn’t chew his cabbage twice” (he shouldn’t need to repeat himself), I always called my dad within hours of returning from an adventure. When his spirit took flight from this world, I felt closest to him when I was at the top of a mountain during a solo hike. I felt like he was with me. I always wear his analogue watch on a hike, which feels like a talisman for safety. Dad told me about his dream to visit the “Motherland” since I was small, and he never had a chance to visit. When he died, I began to look into climbing Kilimanjaro because it felt like there would be no other place where I could be more closely joined in spirit to my dad and to Mother Earth than the highest place in Africa. This is where my research began for finding the best outfitter for my journey.

Finding an Outfitter

The quest to find an outfitter began with my deep desire NOT to perpetuate disparity in wages for porters and sherpas in countries home to the 7 Summits. I knew ahead of time that Tanzania was one of those places where North American, European, and Australian tourists often visit just for the “Kili Experience” with little to no understanding of the local culture or interest in supporting the local economy. I am not one of those travelers. Therefore I wanted to employ an outfitter that was dedicated to paying porters a living wage, as well as one that ensured the standards for porters and guides were healthy. This being the priority, I asked Google to help me search for reviews that spoke to this concern. Over a few weeks I dwindled my search to Ultimate Kilimanjaro. The choice was slightly more expensive than others, but reviews and mission assured me that this additional cost was associated with paying porters and guides a living wage. The experience proved to be more than I could have imagined, and I feel it is money well spent! I had never before experienced hot meals prepared at each camp, two portable toilets, being passed by cheerful porters carrying our equipment, a focus on safety and health, and emotional encouragement from guides that I will articulate more in this post. One consideration that is SUPER important is planning for a $250+ tip at the end of the experience for porters and guides. I feel blessed to learn from our guides about how to build my practice in leading wilderness experiences for others, and there is no dollar amount that can account for this priceless experience.

Choosing a Route

I am an outdoor enthusiast, not a technical mountain climber, which was part of the appeal in climbing Kili as there is no need for ropes and ice axes. I knew that choosing a route that would allow me to acclimate longer would be the best possibility for summiting. There are several routes to choose from, and if you know you can acclimate quickly it might be worth it (saving money and time) to select a shorter route. Yet for me, the Lemosho Route was not only the longest period of acclimation, but it is also a newer route and more scenic. There were few other groups on the trail leading up to the intersection of other routes on day 4 of this 9 day hike. This long route also provided the experience of a longer backpacking trip without carrying all of my own gear. The longest I had traveled backpacking before hand was 4 days. It was great experience for me to incorporate learning for how to plan and pack for a longer trip when I returned to the Pacific Northwest. Now I feel more knowledgeable about how to facilitate longer trips for myself and others.

8 Guides and 50 Porters from Ultimate Kilimanjaro

What to Bring, what to Leave behind

The internet offers so many great checklists for the climb… follow this one to the smallest detail! You’ll be glad you did. I packed my own sleeping bag which was a little precarious for the rest of my month long Tanzania journey, but I’m not mad about it. Outfitters don’t have access to the best equipment which meant that those wonderful porters carrying your stuff have to schlep heavy bags that are provided for a small fee. The bag I brought is super light weight: a Marmot Trestles Elite 20 which I got on sale at REI for around $60. It made my pack far lighter than other climbers in my group, and was warm enough for those cold nights above 13,000 feet. Another accommodation I made was instead of bringing rain pants, I brought light weight, waterproof ski pants. It rained everyday aside from summit day when I was there in December (which was supposed to be the end of the short rain season… but wasn’t really) and I was warmer and drier than others. I also want to tell you about another consideration… Having your Period on the Mountain!!! Yep, I thought I had planned right, but after postponing my trip twice I lost track of dates. So I ended up having Aunt Flo along for 7 out of the 9 day climb. My packing for that included 2 pairs of Thinx underware, 1 diva cup, several tampons, and pantyliners for each day. I also learned that many womxn experience spotting when at high altitudes, so even if you don’t plan to be visited you should still pack liners at least. One last point to mention here is that you should consider leaving some of your used adventure gear behind as a donation for your outfitter. I chose to donate my Salomon trail runners, hiking poles, and a kitted balaclava made specifically for this trek. All donations were appreciated.

Physical Preparation

I tend to spend much time in the wilderness around 6,000+ feet, which is a relatively easy trek coming from Portland at sea level. Until summit day, I had no sore muscles or physical ailments. I acknowledge that my ability and history in athletics contribute to my experience, and I point to incredible accounts from climbers like Julian Torres that have also summited. A few tips from me for both acclimation and physical fitness that I found helpful:

Stairs: In Portland there are several locations for outdoor sets of stairs which I found more appealing than the stair climber at the gym. 3 months leading up to the climb I spent 2 days a week doing as many sets as possible.
Acclimating: In addition to traveling above 6,000 ft once a month in the Northwest (to the Cascades) I also planned my visit to the foothills of Mount Meru (UAACC) two weeks beforehand.
Trail Running: Not only for the obvious endurance gained, but running on uneven terrain helps your body to build up strength in stabilizer muscles. This prevents sprains and strains.
Quitting the Vices: Yeah folks, no recreational drinking or smoking greatly enhances your body’s ability to take in oxygen.
Water and Vitamins: Drinking lots of water in the months leading up to your climb also helps to acclimate. I also took Mullein tincture for lung support. Talk to your physician about herbs.
TRX: Finally, strengthening core in my home gym with my TRX was helpful in building core strength to push through the tough climbs and carrying pack weight (even a daypack can feel hefty at altitude).

Summiting

No matter how you slice it, summiting is a real challenge. I was climbing with experienced climbers and also those who have never trekked beyond tree line. Our guides were experienced in checking vitals in morning and night, and we were all in good health to climb on Summit Day despite some bouts of cold, flu, and travelers diarrhea in earlier days. In any case, we all were pushed to our limits in the final night hike to the summit. Beginning in the morning on “summit day” there is a 2 mile hike to base camp at Barafu. Once there, a lunch before and essential 2 hour nap. After this nap, dinner is provided, then another essential nap. Around 10pm breakfast was served before climbing began around 11pm. The evening of Summit was a New Moon on my trek, which provided a light show from the Milky Way above and from Arusha and Moshi city lights below. I will not overshare about the climb itself to the summit, only to say that is it a trance-like, out-of-body experience like no other. between 17,000-19,000 ft was the first time I had experienced pure exhilaration and exhaustion at the same time. Leading up to the trip, I was given words of wisdom by Mzee Pete O’Neal, Black Panther elder who moved to Tanzania in the 1970’s. He said, “Don’t try to conquer anything. The Mountain will tell you when you’ve reached ‘Your Summit’ ”. This would be the most precious advice given to any travelers venturing to climb Kili, contrary to many ‘Western’ adventurers. Listen to your body and listen to when the Mountain tells you that you have reached YOUR SUMMIT.

Brother Nico, one of the best guides on the mountain

Lessons Learned from Kilimanjaro

LESSON #1: “People are more than meets the eye.” When I began the trek I was nervous about spending 9 days with White Westerners, being that I am Biracial-Black, and that their domination of culture may taint my experience. While this was somewhat true (I had to have a few group interventions as one of two POCs of the 15 climbers on our trip), I also was pleasantly surprised! Once I became comfortable in sharing more of myself, I actually began to see how other climbers on the trip were similar to me in many ways and actually sought my perspective as comrade. I was blessed with the best tent-mate who was also a single mom from Seattle and Detroit, which made the experience one that resulted in a Sister from another Mister.

LESSON #2: “We Each Reach Our Own Summit, and That’s Where We Need to Be”. Elaborating on Mzee Pete’s advice, I was well aware that ever other climber (tourist) in my crew was set on “Conquering the Mountain”. This term “conquer” is not one that I take into my own vocabulary. It is a term that has to do with colonization and domination. I was brought back to the initial reason that I wanted to climb in the first place… to be closer to my dad, closer to myself, closer to Earth Mama or the God of My Understanding. My quest was never about “conquering” (by definition means to overcome and take control of a place or people by use of military force). Rather my effort was to reach the Highest Point in the Motherland that I Could Reach. And I did. I encourage anyone seeking to spend time with Mother Nature’s awesomeness at this Mountain to do the same. Pole Pole! Nakupenda sana. Learning just a little Swahili goes a long way.

LESSON #3: “The Larger the Movement, The Bigger Need for Coordination”. This trek took 58 porters and guides to successfully support 15 travelers. Reminiscent of movements in the US, I was reflective on my personal practice in bringing experiential education, against all odds, to youth and adults. The most successful experiences I have been able to facilitate have involved many parents, community members, funders, educators, and youth leaders. This experience made me even more aware of the work it takes to foster LARGE MOVEMENTS. Whether that be moving over miles on a mountain, or moving toward a brighter future, it is essential for coordination. This is why I believe in a mission toward community organizing and always have. I hope to be the porter and guide toward reaching higher ground.

Lesson #4: “Every Struggle Has a Friend till the End”. When I felt I couldn’t make it for another step above 17,000 ft, Abraham, our guide, was there to remind me that “he’s got my back”. On the Mountain, Abraham was my trusted leader, someone that I learned from and relied upon when things got tough. In my foggy daze of the last few steps to my summit, Abraham held my hand, dried my eyes from tears, and reminded me that I only had a few more steps till I was there. While I know this is his job, he is a True Friend. Perhaps, if I’m lucky, I get to be that True Friend for others. While it’s my job to show up for youth and adults in the work I do in Portland, I also give my heart to those I support in bringing them through struggle. Abraham reminded me that my compassion goes a long way in the personal journey to reach “Your Own Summit”

Final Thoughts

My trek took me a little closer to myself, to my dad and to my spiritual center. Before you take this journey, I ask you to spend time beforehand in deep reflection. I was blessed by an Orisha Priestess in leaving behind what doesn’t suit my future and poems that were my lullaby at night (Mama C at UAACC), my Rabbi, Brian Mayer in helping me understand my spiritual path moving forward (ROTB), and my dad’s legacy in what I choose to bring with me along the way (a playlist of Lamar's favorite songs). Whatever your reason for setting out to climb Kili, I ask that you spend time thinking about these three things: 1) What do you want to leave behind that no longer suits you? 2) What do you want to learn about yourself? 3) What do you choose to carry with you in your daypack?

Thanks for reading.

Mount Kilimanjaro Climb